3.7V Li-po Battery for SYMA S107 Original Factory Replacement Part S107G-19

Item Description

Has your Helicopter lost it is power. Will it no longer hold a Charge. This is a Factory Replacement 3.7v Li-Po Battery. Light Soldering is Necessary.

3.7V Li-po Battery for SYMA S107 Original Factory Replacement Part S107G-19

Product Details

Shipping Weight: 1 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
ASIN: B004KGTM90
Amazon Best Sellers Rank: 987 in Toys ; Games (See Top 100 in Toys ; Games)
3 inToys ; Games Hobbies Radio Control Parts

By : Syma
Price : $5.40

Item Capabilities

three.7v 150 mAh LI-Po Battery
Original Factory Replacement
By no means leave a Charging Battery Unattended

Buyer Evaluations

I bought this battery to execute some experiments with escalating my flying time. This worked superb. I now typical about 15-16 minutes flying time, and that is just till is starts to get a tiny weak. I could very easily go a different couple of minutes, but I don't want to push the batteries that difficult, and it is a lot much more entertaining flying with charged batteries.
This modification is secure and hassle-free. This is since these cells use safety circuits to limit over discharge and more than charge. There are a handful of precautions though:
1. Use two batteries of equal age. This implies a new battery in a new heli and a new replacement battery, or two new replacement batteries. Do not mix a new replacement battery with an old, worn out battery.
2. Use two batteries of equal charge - preferably discharged. This is not essential, but it is far better to begin with two discharged batteries so they don't have any substantial power if you accidentally brief a thing. Also, it just keeps every little thing in far better balance from the start off.
3. Hook up the batteries in parallel - red to red and black to black. This doubles the battery capacity and increases the flying time. If you hook them up in series (finish to end), you will double the voltage, which will burn out the motors if it does not fry the heli's circuit board (and you won't be in a position to charge them anyway).
This is how you make the modification. Initially, the new battery is quite possibly totally discharged, so fly your heli until the battery is discharged (unless you are working with two new cells). Then splice the new battery in parallel with the battery in the heli. I discovered it simplest to just cut out the current battery, leaving about equal lengths of red and black wire. Then I trimmed the wires on the new battery to the exact same length. I then stripped and tinned all the wire ends. I then soldered the two batteries together, red to red and black to black. Utilizing the double sided tape that held in the old battery, I stuck them together. I then slid some heat shrink over the wires coming from the heli. I then lap soldered the battery wires to the heli wires, red to red and black to black. I then slid up the heat shrink over the solder joint and shrunk it. You could also wrap the wires together and cover them with tape, but that is probably harder in the limited space, and they won't hold as nicely as solder. Then I removed the weight taped in the nose of the canopy. Lastly, you just locate the battery over the battery holder (see photo) and slide on the canopy - it really is a snug fit, so there is no want to tape down the battery.
With this hassle-free modification, you will double your flying time - or more. Every battery has half the existing being drawn from it, so they sustain a greater voltage for a longer time. It really is like the 1st minute or two with a single battery, but for 10-12 minutes. Depending on how challenging you fly, even just after 14-15 minutes, you can still fly up to the ceiling. Just after about 15-16 minutes, I start to notice that the heli is losing trim and it is harder to maintain lift. I could very easily preserve going an additional couple of minutes, even flying in ground effect, but why push the batteries that difficult. The down side is that it would in all probability take 3 hours to recharge using the USB cable charger. So instead, I am employing the wall plug charger that takes about 1.5 hours or much less to completely charge the battery. The heli is also a tiny nose heavy, but I like that, and quite a few people add nose weights anyway. With the heavy nose, you normally have forward momentum, and I assume it really is easier to control. You can also go really quickly in the forward direction, but rather slow backwards and you can not extremely hover. You can also add counter weights to the tail (like the weight from the nose) if you don't like it.
Some other notes on battery life:
1. I estimate that the heli draws about 1.2A to preserve altitude.
2. Full throttle draws about 1.5A max with a fully charged battery, but commonly about 1.35-1.4A.
3. Running the tail motor draws another .2-.25A.
4. The LED only draws about 12mA, or only 1% of your typical existing.
So you see, if you just sustain altitude, drift forward, and only turn right and left, you only draw abut 1.2A. But if you are continuously zipping up and down and forward and backward, you are drawing about 1.65A. I am most likely somewhere in the middle and I get a really good 15-16 minutes. Your results might possibly differ.
-Cheers

This was a replacement battery for a Syma 107 that had over 100 flights. Hope
the new 1 lasts as lengthy. Important thing, with these batteries let them cool before
and just after charging.